posted by Travel Cat on Nov 2
Trekking the Inca Trail - A Reader Postcard from Peru
It all began so perfectly - with a day in Cuzco, a fantastic colonial Spanish Town built on historic Inca ruins.
After getting used to the altitude and sampling some of the local dishes, we met some of local Quecha people and did some last minute shopping for essentials. It’s going to be an early start in the morning, and there won’t be a hotel waiting at the end of it all: we have a tent and portable toilets to look forward to.
The drive through the mountains in the morning along some of the hairiest roads ever - clinging to the side for all they were worth - certainly opened up the conversation with the others in the group. We’d been training for months for this trip, making sure we could enjoy the 4 day trek, and now - the moment of truth was approaching. In the next hour or so, we would actually be on our way.
The Start:
To be honest the first few hours for me were not fun. Yeah, it was great being one of the first across the rope and timber bridge over the Rio Urubamba at the entrance, but then it got quite windy. Not a problem in itself but I had to hold my hat on the whole time, making walking a bit tricky and meaning that sightseeing was next to impossible due to all the grit blowing about.
However, as we gained height the wind lulled and I got on with the views and chatting to other walkers. We were glad for having trained for this as some parts were quite steep, I was more than grateful for having worn in my walking boots! Lunch and snack stops were well appreciated by everyone and after about 5 hours of trekking, we arrived at the first camp site.
We knew that Day 2 was supposed to be harder, so we all retired early after a hearty dinner. No-one had trouble sleeping.
Day 2:
Up early after the donkey in the field next door started braying endlessly, and wolfed down breakfast - ready to go.
Some others were starting to experience some signs of altitude sickness - and there were many ‘upset tummies’ shall we say! So far so good for me, as we headed off again.
Today really was tough, and at one point the steps were just endless. All we were doing was going up and up and up, step after step. There didn’t seem to be any flat parts here and at one point I actually got an evil headache! At lunch stop and hour or so later, I just needed to sleep.
I found a tent (already with someone else in it) and fell asleep suprising fast! After getting woken up as everyone started of again, I felt a lot better and managed a few bites of apple before offering it to one of the porters who was much more grateful of it than I was.
Air was thin at Dead Woman’s Pass - the highest point of the whole trek - but we had hot drinks waiting for us at the top and we all cheered everyone as they arrived after us. Apparently just down the other side was campsite 2. A welcome site - although it started to rain, and didn’t stop all night.
Day 3:
Still not hungry, we headed of into the drizzle of the morning. Nothing much to see for most of the day really in the thick mist, but there were some nice ruins along the way.
Really picked up the trek after lunch - it was all downhill from here, but stepping down was really sore on the knees. We noticed that the porters were jogging down with all the heavy bags - so we joined them. And it was so much easier and very exhilarating after a dull plodding morning.
The path was quite wide here most of the way and the stones were solid so we sped down the slopes towards our next stopping point: Huinay Huayna. This hostel has showers (unlike the last 2 campsites) and we are having a little party here tonight. So straight to the (tepid) shower and a hair-wash!!
I managed to eat a bit of cucumber for dinner, before starting on the vodkas - maybe not the best idea, but we had been drinking so much water over the trek that I knew I’d be fine in the morning - even if I got a little tipsy for the party………
Day 4:
As we headed up the final path to the Sun Gate, I was all excited. I was finally going to stand in that picture of Macchu Pichu that you always see in travel brochures. The picture that I saw as a young girl that inspired me to learn more about South America, and to one day be right here, right now.
I was a little disappointed as I finally saw the site though. A great big zig-zag road was cleared to one side to allow people to just arrive there by public transport - not what I was hoping for. And it looked so small and not quite as high and remote as I thought.
If the road is just down there and I can see the river from here, then we aren’t quite so ‘in the middle of nowhere’ as I had envisaged from the picture and descriptions. How did the Spanish not find it all those years ago?? It’s so ‘near’ everything.
However, once I was down amongst the buildings and looking over the steep terraces I felt interested again. The details I had read in the books was here in front of me, there were llamas wandering around and I even saw a wild chinchilla nibbling at grass by the ruins.
It bewitched me for the several hours we were there - I was investigating every nook and cranny. Wandering in and out of peoples houses and temples (if that’s what they were). Walking where they walked, seeing what they saw, and touching what they had touched. It was a shame that time ticked away so quickly, and we had to leave.
Down to earth at the restaurant though, when the radio was announcing the UK football results……..
I’d definitely go back.
